Loins of venison cooked with pine butter

Served with venison suet puddings, Hisbi cabbage, potato galettes, smoked bacon and pickled onion, king oyster mushroom tops & venison jus.

Serves 4. Most of this should be prepared the day before, making it easy to finish off and assemble just before serving.

First, the suet puddings.

You will need a large stock pan and 4 small suet pudding moulds, oil for greasing and cling film.

The filling

  • 250g diced venison shoulder
  • 125g venison or lamb kidney
  • 2 diced onions
  • 50g plain flour
  • 1 tin of good chopped tomatoes
  • 1 tbs tomato puree
  • Half a bottle of good red wine
  • 1 litre beef stock
  • 1 bunch chopped fresh parsley

Colour the diced shoulder, add the onions and caramelise, add the red wine and reduce to sticky. Add the flour, chopped tomatoes, tomato puree and beef stock. Simmer until tender. Add the diced kidney and cook for another 30 minutes. Allow to cool and then add the parsley.

The suet mix

  • 200g self-raising flour
  • 25g beef suet
  • Pinch of sea salt
  • Water for mixing

In a large bowl, mix the flour, suet and salt together. Gradually add water, a tiny amount at a time until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. Dust your work surface and rolling pin with flour and roll the mixture out to a centimetre thick.

Lightly oil the moulds and put a piece of cling film over the moulds, a large enough piece to help you push the suet pastry into the moulds and to stay in place while the puddings are steaming.

Use a small bowl or large circular pastry cutter to cut the pastry into four pieces for the bottoms of the puddings. Reserve enough pastry to cut to the size of the lids. Use the cling film to place the pastry in the moulds. Mould around the edges of the moulds, add the filling leaving space for the lid to sit on top and form a tight seal. Seal with the cling film. Place the 4 puddings into a tray that will hold water half way up the moulds. Cover with foil and steam in the oven at 160 degrees until hot. Approximately 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool and refrigerate until needed.

The potato galettes

  • 2 large Maris piper potatoes peeled
  • Clarified butter
  • Parchment paper

We use a 10cm cylinder cutter to create a cylinder of potato and then a Mandoline to slice the potato cylinders into very thin rounds. Coat the potato rounds in clarified butter with a brush. Place a sheet of baking parchment on a baking tray. Create 4 rounds of potato pieces with three round of potatoes over the middle so that they look like open flowers. Cover with another sheet of parchment and another tray to weight it down and bake until golden brown.

The venison loins

One piece of venison fillet that creates 4 x 100g loin portions

Trim the fillet so that it is an even shape and there is no fat. Keep the trimmings for making the jus

Roll tightly in cling film to make a sausage and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.

The venison jus

  • Dash of olive oil
  • Venison fillet trimmings
  • Mirepoix of vegetables (two parts onion to one part each celery, leek and carrot finely diced and sautéed in butter)
  • Half a bulb of garlic
  • Sprig of rosemary
  • Sprig of thyme
  • 1 tbs tomato puree
  • The other half of the bottle of good red wine
  • 2 litres of beef stock.

Add the oil and trimmings to a large pan. Colour the venison, add the Mirepoix of vegetables, the garlic and herbs. Stir in the tomato puree and add Add the oil and trimmings to a large pan. Colour the venison, add the Mirepoix of vegetables, the garlic and herbs. Stir in the tomato puree and add the wine and beef stock. Simmer until thickened to a nice gravy like consistency and pass through a sieve. Keep until needed.

Streaky bacon lardon

  • Piece of pork belly
  • Mirepoix of vegetables
  • Sprigs of thyme and rosemary
  • Water

Place the pork belly in water with the Mirepoix vegetables and herbs. Cover with water and a lid and simmer in the oven for 3 hours at 120 degrees. (We do larger pieces for about 6 hours).

Remove the pork from the liquid and press between two trays overnight in the fridge which extracts the fat and sets the bacon up to cube into 4 x 2cm lardons ready for serving.

The pickled red onions

  • 2 red onions sliced into fine rings and put in a container
  • 100ml white balsamic vinegar
  • 100ml olive oil
  • 100ml water

Simmer the liquids together for about a minute, pour over onions, seal the container, refrigerate and leave until ready to serve.

King oyster mushroom tops

  • 4 king oyster mushrooms (reserve the bottoms for something else)
  • Butter
  • Salt

Gently cook the tops in butter with a pinch of salt until soft

Pine butter

  • Green pine needles from the branches of fir trees (in the garden!)
  • 200g butter

Blitz together, form into a cylinder ready refrigerate, ready for using on the venison before serving.

Hispi cabbage, also known as sweetheart cabbage

Tear off the outside leaves, cut to 10 cm round so that they will site nicely on the bottom of the plate. Blanch quickly in boiling salted water, remove and season.

Getting ready to serve and assemble

Warm the suet puddings.

Finally, cut the venison fillet into 4 x 100g loins.

Sear in a hot pan with olive oil until pink. Five minutes on each side. Rest to relax

Put everything on a tray to warm and warm the jus gently in a pan.

Add a round of pine butter to each venison loin and grill until the butter melts over the top.

Assemble your 4 plates

Cabbage leaf

Potato galette

Suet pudding


Bacon Lardon

2 pickled onion pieces

Mushroom tops

Spoon the jus over the suet puddings.

Serve and enjoy!